They say the eyes speak a thousand words, so make sure your customers’ eyes are saying great things with perfect lashes. Laura Pollard reveals how…

What’s in a wand?

We all want the beauty fairy to wave her magic wand and give us luscious lashes that command attention. But when it comes to mascara wands, there are so many varieties to choose from, each providing different effects. So how can you help customers to pick the best one for their needs?

MAC senior artist Dominic Skinner advises: “A sparse, open wand will add lots of mascara, making the lashes full and chunky, whereas a tight wand will add very light coverage, giving a soft, fluttery lash.” JustMyLook in-house beauty expert Jenna Buckingham suggests customers with shorter lashes opt for a skinny mascara brush. “This allows the mascara to be applied right from the bottom of the root, which would not be possible with a larger sized brush,” she says.

Those without much curl to their natural lashes should opt for a curved wand. Body Shop makeup artist Lan Nguyen-Grealis reveals: “Curved wands help to pull the lashes upwards to curl more than a straight wand, but the trick is to move it from left to right and to really work into the lashes for the best effect.” We like Benefit Roller Lash, which catches lashes and pulls them into a curl.

Although slightly more time consuming to use, circular wands are good for reaching every lash at every angle, so are ideal for a customised look and for accentuating bottom lashes. Suggest Givenchy Phenomen Eyes High Precision Mascara or Clinique Bottom Lash Mascara, which is a great choice just for bottom lashes.

ModelsOwn Hyper Eyes Mascara has longer bristles on one side of the wand and shorter bristles on the other side, making it perfect for both top and bottom lashes. And then there’s the strangely named swan neck wand – as with Lancôme Grandiose Mascara 01, which fans out lashes for a wide-eyed, feminine finish.

Choose colour

Most customers choose black mascara by default, and there’s no denying this is a great choice. “Black mascara is the best colour to use overall,” says Lan, “as it really contrasts against the eyes and skin and defines the eyes without using eyeliner.” 

But on the counter side, Dominic says: “Coloured mascara can be great for people who don’t wear much makeup.

Purples and plum tones suit brown and green eyes, while green mascara suits hazel eyes. Blue will make blue eyes pop even more and will also make the whites of the eyes look whiter. And then there’s brown, which gives a more natural look, suits all eye colours and is ideal for summer.

For customers who want to play it safe, Benefit assistant makeup and trend artist Lauren Hogsden suggests: “Try applying just a lick of coloured mascara to the tips of the eyelashes.” Yves Saint Laurent Volume Effet Faux Cils Luxurious Mascara is available in purple, blue and brown, while Bourjois Volume Glamour Max Holidays Mascaras come in blue, green and purple. Their mini size also means these are great for those who are just dipping their toe in the water.

Avoid fall out

While it’s true that waterproof mascara stays put for longer, the eyelashes can stiffen when the mascara sets, leaving them prone to breakage and fall out. “Waterproof mascara dries out the hair follicles,” explains Lan, “so it shouldn’t be worn for too long or there is a risk of lashes falling out.”

Lauren advises: “Using a lick of water-resistant or waterproof mascara over the top of a non-waterproof mascara can help seal the mascara, resulting in less fibre fall.” Recommend Mac Haute and Naughty Waterproof Lash, which gives volume and defined lashes, while conditioning ingredients avoid leaving lashes with that crunchy dryness.

Alternatively, a primer can be a good idea as it coats the lashes first so that waterproofing ingredients are unable to dry them out. As well as preventing lash dry-out, primers have other benefits, as Dominic explains: “Primers are amazing for really maximising lashes. They give each lash extra support, almost like scaffolding, for the mascara to grab onto.”

We like MAC Prep & Prime Lash, and Estée Lauder Little Black Primer, which is black rather than the usual white, so it can be used alone if customers wish. Alternatively, Arbonne Lash Enhancer is a clear-coating product that can be used alone or underneath mascara to condition and lengthen the natural lashes.

 

Application advice

Applying mascara to eyelashes seems like a simple enough process, but what few people realise is that there are several ways that it can be done, each giving a slightly different result. Dominic says: “I always start by curling the lashes. Consider a lash curler like Spanx for the eyes: curling just makes everything look better.”

Once curled, he recommends working the wand into the roots of the lashes to help get a good base and then slowly zig-zagging the mascara up and out for full and lifted lashes. Lan adds: “For a thick mascara look, it’s best to roll it on top of the lashes to pull and then under to push them up.”

For a more natural result, Justmylook suggests: “Holding the brush vertically and running just the tip of the brush along the length of the eyelash will give lashes a less curled and more subtle appearance.”

As another option, Lan recommends: “For a more feline lash look, pull the lashes with the wand upward and outward towards the outer corner of the eye and layer the mascara in the same movement.” Whatever style the customer wants to create, always advise letting each application dry before re-applying.

Sensitive issues

There are many tips to take on board for contact lens wearers and customers with sensitive eyes:

• Justmylook recommends curling mascara wands. “These are fantastic at lifting and curling lashes, which is perfect for those who wear glasses and are constantly irritated by their eyelashes rubbing on their lenses.”
• Advise customers to avoid waterproof mascara. Lan says: “Instead, they should wear stronger makeup such as eyeliner or eye shadow to bring out the eyes and wear less mascara as it can stain and be hard to remove.”
• Dominic recommends a fibreless mascara, such as MAC Extended Play Lash, which doesn’t flake or fall, but does come off easily with warm water, so a harsh remover isn’t required.
• Lauren suggests a wax-based formulation, such as Benefit They’re Real Mascara. You could also suggest Origins GinZing Brightening mascara, which elongates and lifts lashes, and is flake-proof yet easy to remove, plus the conditioning formula and natural plant extracts will be gentle on the eyes.