Advising on moisturisers

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Advising on moisturisers

Should you be recommending different day and night creams? Do you know why customers should use serums? Laura Pollard answers some of the most common face cream conundrums

What’s the best way to apply a moisturiser?

Sally Penfold, education manager for Dermalogica and IDI, advises: “Apply a 50p piece-sized amount of moisturiser to the face and neck, from the chest upwards.”

Application should be even, across the whole area, especially when using a day cream with in-built sun protection. Moisturisers can be applied immediately after a serum or, if not using a serum, directly after cleansing, to help trap essential moisture inside the skin.

Advise customers not to apply face cream to the eye area, as this requires a specific eye cream. Sally says: “Many moisturisers may be too rich in oils for the eye area and cause puffiness, or contain high levels of hydroxy acids, which may cause irritation.”

Why should we recommend serums as well as moisturisers?

Fiona Brackenbury, training and education director for Decléor, says: “Serums are an essential step within a skincare routine as they are more powerful and concentrated than moisturisers.”

Moisturisers protect and hydrate the skin’s surface, and provide essential nutrients, but they only work on the skin that you can see and feel. On the other hand, Fiona says: “Serums have a greater affinity with the skin. It’s best to choose an oil-based serum, rather than water-based, as this will work at a deeper level and act on the skin of the future.”

Sally adds: “Serums act as an intensive treatment with a specific targeted action, such as regeneration and repair or reduction in inflammation. A moisturiser, although also potentially highly active, is largely designed to protect the skin from environmental aggressors and transepidermal water loss.”

Is it worth using a different day and night cream?

For customers on a budget, it is possible to use a high-quality moisturiser that works for both day and night. However, for those looking for more specific treatments, Sally advises: “Customers may use a different formula for both day and night to achieve different results. For example, daytime to hydrate and protect against UV rays, and night-time to focus on rebuilding the barrier function of the skin.”

Are there pros and cons to having an SPF in moisturisers?

Face creams containing UV protection still work effectively, but they might contain fewer active ingredients. However, Sally reveals: “Newer technological advances now allow delivery of sunscreen in oleosomes, which act like envelopes, so that they only become active when exposed to UV. This allows much more flexibility in formulation and also reduces the amount of chemical SPF required to achieve the same sun protection.”

Sally recommends a minimum of SPF 15 in a facial moisturiser, but up to SPF 50 may be advised for customers concerned about premature ageing and hyper-pigmentation.

Is it advisable to change moisturiser from time-to-time?

Sally confirms that it is a myth that skin “gets used to” a brand or product, so there is no real need to change. However, as people age and as changes occur in the seasons or in people’s lifestyles (e.g. during illness or pregnancy), some customers may benefit from trying different products with specific results, either from the same brand umbrella or from another.

Sally says: “I would encourage the customer to analyse their skin on a daily basis to determine whether a change is required. This change may take the form of an isolated treatment product such as a spot treatment, a serum to feed and revitalise or a booster to add hydration. Or simply to change moisturisers from summer to winter in favour of richer or lighter formulas.”

 

Top 3 moisturisers

For counteracting volume loss:

Indeed Labs Fillume Volumising Moisturiser is a new kid on the block. This anti-ageing cream targets volume loss in skin, aiming to restore facial contours and plump out the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, so it’s like a natural alternative to cosmetic fillers and injections.

For very dry skin:

Origins Make A Difference Night Cream is a rich yet fastpenetrating cream, especially for those with exceptionally dry skin. The night-time hydration is delivered to the deeper levels of the skin, where moisture is needed most, and creates a “reservoir” so that skin remains hydrated, supple and soft throughout the day.

For skin firmness and renewal:

Clarins Extra Firming Day Cream is part of Clarins’ best-selling range, with one pot sold every eight seconds globally. It targets skin firmness and renewal, and helps to slow the ageing process. This easily-absorbed moisturiser also gives an immediate lifting effect on application.

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